Scuba Diving at Candidasa, Bali
Returning to Where my Dive Journey Began
September 2025
Candidasa is a peaceful coastal town on Bali’s east coast, tucked between green hills and the deep blue waters of the Lombok Strait. It’s the quieter side of the island, without beach clubs or packed bars. Instead, you’ll find a laid-back mix of beachfront villas, homestays, warungs and a handful of good restaurants along Jalan Raya Candidasa, including my go-to spot, Warung Budi Ayu.
The town is easy to reach. It’s only a short drive from Padang Bai port and around two hours from Sanur. Whether you arrive by road from Denpasar or by boat from Nusa Penida, it makes an ideal stop before heading further up the coast to Tulamben..
For me though, Candidasa is more than a stop-off. This is where it all began back in 2022, when I first learned to dive. It’s where my underwater obsession truly started, and I couldn’t wait to return.
Diving here offers a real mix of conditions. Some sites have currents, while others are calm and perfect for spotting macro life. The variety is fantastic, from gentle muck dives ideal for photography to deeper sites where you might encounter reef sharks or even a seasonal Mola Mola. It’s also possible to take day trips from Candidasa to reach Nusa Penida’s top dive sites, which makes it a brilliant base for underwater adventures without the crowds.
Getting to Candidasa and Where I Stayed
fter finishing my dives in Nusa Penida, I booked a fast boat to Padang Bai using 12GO, my go-to platform for ferry and boat transfers in Southeast Asia. The crossing took just 25 minutes with SemayaOne Fast Cruises, departing from Buyuk on Nusa Penida and arriving at Padang Bai port on Bali’s east coast.
I had already let the dive school I trained with back in 2022 know I was returning, and they kindly arranged transport for me. Siki, the owner of Sianmay Dive Bali, met me at the port and drove me the short 25-minute journey to my hotel in Candidasa. It was great to see him again and I received such a warm welcome.
If you haven’t arranged a transfer in advance, be prepared for plenty of taxi drivers approaching you at the port. Grab and Gojek both operate in this area, though Gojek tends to be the more reliable option. I was glad I had something organised, and even if you are not diving with them, it’s worth contacting Siki at Sianmay Dive Bali. He is genuinely helpful and can make your arrival in Candidasa much smoother.
I stayed at Bungalow Geringsing, which turned out to be a great find. The price was very reasonable and the central location made it easy to reach local bars, spas and supermarkets. The property has a small pool and direct sea access, with two of the rooms facing the ocean. I would definitely recommend booking one of these if you want something a little more special. All rooms are air-conditioned, and breakfast is available to order if you would like it.
Diving with Sianmay Dive Bali
Sianmay Diving is a family-run dive shop, and for me it will always be something special. It is where my dive journey first began back in 2022, so returning felt like catching up with old friends.
After Siki dropped me at my hotel to check in, he took me over to the dive shop so we could sort out paperwork, disclaimers and rental gear. I usually travel light and only bring my rash vest, mask and fins, so I hired the rest to save on weight. The equipment was in excellent condition and everything was ready for the next day.
We caught up over a cold Bintang, and Siki even arranged a massage for me at the small place across the road, the same one I went to on my first visit. It was a perfect way to settle back in and get ready for diving again.
Day One: Gili Mimpang and Gili Tepekong
Our first dive was at Gili Mimpang, also known as Batu Tiga. The site is made up of three large rocks and several smaller ones, creating rugged underwater scenery. Dramatic rock formations and coral-covered crags give the place a wild feel, but the currents can be strong, so it is better suited for divers with some experience. Visibility was decent and the marine life did not disappoint. We spotted cuttlefish and around five white tip reef sharks resting on the sand below us.
Next up was Gili Tepekong, another site that more than lived up to its reputation. With steep walls and the well-known Canyon area, it offered plenty to explore. While weaving through the rocks we saw young white tip sharks and even had a bamboo shark cruise past. The whole dive felt untamed, with shifting conditions and marine life appearing at every turn. The currents were present but manageable, and it was definitely a dive that rewarded the effort.
After our dives we headed back to shore. The dive shop had showers and fresh towels waiting, and behind the shop was a peaceful little garden with the family temple. It was a lovely spot to pause before lunch. As diving was finished for the day, I was handed an ice cold Bintang and taken next door to the local warung where lunch was served. It was the perfect way to end the morning, with the afternoon free to relax and sort through photos.
Day Two: Blue Lagoon Macro Hunting
The second day of diving followed a similar pattern. My original plan was to head up to Tulamben with Sianmay, where I had completed my Open Water course back in 2022. The idea was to dive there and stay for a few nights. After some gentle persuasion, I decided to stay another night in Candidasa and dive Blue Lagoon instead. I am glad I made that choice.
Blue Lagoon, just off Padang Bai, offers more than just reef diving. It is also home to excellent muck diving, which makes it a real treat for macro lovers and photographers. Visibility was good and the variety of life kept us busy throughout the dives. You never quite know what will appear here, from moray eels and leaf fish to unusual nudibranchs and the occasional surprise hidden under coral outcrops. It is an accessible site for all levels of diver and being so close to shore makes it a relaxed day out.
On this trip it was just me, the guide and the captain, which gave it a more personal feel. We went on a proper little critter-hunting mission and it paid off. We spotted Indian Walkmans, a Cockatoo Leaf Fish, a Halgerda Batangas nudibranch I had never seen before, and some stunning cuttlefish.
Afterwards we returned to shore for lunch and a final chat before I said my goodbyes. The next stop on my journey would be Tulamben, but Blue Lagoon had been the perfect way to round off my diving in Candidasa.
Where to Eat in Candidasa
Candidasa may be small, but it has no shortage of great local restaurants. One spot I always return to is Warung Budi Ayu. This family-run warung is the kind of place where you instantly feel welcome. Budi and his wife greeted me like an old friend when I came back, and the food was as good as I remembered. Everything is cooked to order, fresh, full of flavour and very reasonably priced.
Ice cold drinks are always on hand, including Bintang, which is perfect after a day of diving. They also accept card payments with a small 3% fee, which is pretty standard across Bali. I ended up eating here every night of my stay, and even called in for lunch on my way back from Tulamben to Denpasar. It is a relaxed and friendly place that makes you feel right at home, and I would recommend it to anyone passing through Candidasa. Get directions on Google Maps
Wrapping Up the Trip
Planning some diving in Candidasa is well worth it, especially as a stopover if you are heading to or from Tulamben. I cannot recommend Sianmay Dive Bali enough. This genuinely welcoming, family-run dive shop knows the area inside out. Whether you want to dive locally, travel up to Tulamben, or even explore sites like Manta Point and Crystal Bay in Nusa Penida, they can make it happen. They also arrange transfers, which makes everything so much easier.
This dive shop will always hold a place close to my heart. It is friendly, laid-back, and the team go out of their way to make sure you are looked after. Every dive with them has been a great experience, combining professionalism with those little personal touches that stay with you. I have been twice now, and I know I will be back again.
Candidasa Diving Gallery
Here’s a selection of photos from my dives around Candidasa, Bali. From tiny macro critters and colourful reef life to cuttlefish and the occasional shark, these images give a glimpse of the vibrant and diverse underwater world that makes diving here so rewarding.
