Marsa Alam sits on Egypt’s southern Red Sea coast and has become a paradise for divers. The region is famous for calm bays, colourful coral reefs, and frequent turtle sightings. Its biggest draw, though, is the chance to encounter a dugong in the wild.
Just south of town lies Abu Dabbab Bay, a wide sandy lagoon where seagrass meadows spread across the seabed. These fields attract turtles and, at times, the elusive dugongs that come to feed. The reefs along this coastline are full of life, making every dive a mix of colour and excitement.
For divers who want to go further, Elphinstone Reef lies offshore and offers deep walls, strong currents, and the possibility of spotting hammerheads or oceanic whitetips. It’s one of the Red Sea’s most exciting sites.
When I first headed to Marsa Alam in November 2022, my goal was clear. I wanted to see a dugong in the wild. With help from the team at Hurghada Diving, arrangements were made through Mahmoud at Just Dive Marsa Alam, a local guide well known for finding the best sites.
It was an early 4.30 am start from Makadi Bay, and the excitement easily made up for the lack of sleep. Mahmoud was waiting when we arrived, ready to get us kitted up and onto the boat. Watching the sunrise over the Red Sea as we cruised toward Abu Dabbab Bay set the tone for the day.
After about 45 minutes of searching, there was still no sign of a dugong, so we decided to enjoy a dive anyway. The water was warm and clear, with colourful coral gardens and plenty of reef fish to keep us busy. Just as we surfaced, news came over the radio that a dugong had been spotted back near the jetty.
We raced across, geared up quickly, and slipped into the water. At only eight metres deep, there it was, calmly feeding on the seagrass. It was just us, the dive master, and the dugong, completely undisturbed. Being off-peak season meant no crowds, just a peaceful, unforgettable encounter.
When I returned to Marsa Alam in July 2024, the day began early with a trip to Elphinstone Reef, one of the Red Sea’s most famous dive sites. The sea was calm and the light perfect as we set out from Abu Dabbab Bay. Below the surface, the currents were strong and the walls dropped steeply into deep blue water. While keeping an eye out for oceanic whitetips, I caught a distant glimpse of a hammerhead before it faded into the depths. Even without a close encounter, it was an incredible start to the day.
After surfacing, the group headed back towards Abu Dabbab Bay for the second dive, hoping to see the dugong that often feeds in the seagrass there. This time, though, it was peak season, and the difference was clear as soon as we entered the water. The site was crowded with divers, and although I was lucky enough to see a dugong again, the atmosphere was completely different.
Some divers swam too close, while others used bright lights and cameras far too near its face. It was frustrating to watch, and the dugong soon moved away. The dive masters tried their best to keep order, but the sheer number of people made it impossible. It was a reminder of how important it is to dive responsibly and respect the wildlife that draws us there in the first place.
Diving here is possible all year round, but if you’re hoping for a calm and meaningful encounter with marine life, the quieter months are best. Between October and April, the sites are less crowded, the water is clear, and the chances of a relaxed experience are much higher. Peak summer brings warmer temperatures but also far more visitors, especially around Abu Dabbab Bay.
Both trips were organised through Just Dive Marsa Alam, a small and friendly dive centre run by Mahmoud. I’d first been introduced to him by the team at Hurghada Diving, and he quickly became my go-to contact for the area. Mahmoud knows the local sites inside out and runs his operation with genuine care for both divers and marine life.
From hotel transfers to equipment setup, everything ran smoothly. The team kept things relaxed but professional, with clear briefings and plenty of time in the water. It never felt rushed or commercial, which is rare in busy destinations.
Just Dive Marsa Alam doesn’t have an official website, but they are active on Facebook and easy to reach via WhatsApp. Mahmoud is always quick to reply, friendly, and happy to help plan the perfect diving day. If you prefer a more personal and responsible diving experience, I can’t recommend them enough.
A few photos from my dives in Marsa Alam. The encounters with dugongs in Abu Dabbab Bay were truly unforgettable and a reminder of how special this part of the Red Sea is.
