Scuba Diving in the Galápagos

My First Glimpse of the Galápagos

Galápagos scuba diving wasn’t something I ever planned to fall in love with… but after my first visit to the islands I knew I had to go back and see what lay beneath the surface. Years ago I explored the Galápagos aboard a small Celebrity cruise, hopping between islands, spotting marine iguanas and sea lions, and snorkelling alongside a baby sea lion – a moment that’s stayed with me ever since.

Fast forward to December 2024 and I returned, this time with a dive certification, a GoPro and a clear goal… to experience Galápagos scuba diving properly and capture the magic I’d missed the first time.

Diving from Santa Cruz Island

Staying on Santa Cruz

This time, we based ourselves on Santa Cruz Island, staying at Captain Max B&B – a small, welcoming spot with friendly hosts and properly good breakfasts (yes, the eggs deserve a mention). Unlike the cruise experience, staying overnight on land meant we got to see the quieter, local side of the island once the day-trippers left – peaceful streets, sunset views, and sea lions sleeping on the benches.

Choosing Eagleray Tours

I booked four days of diving with Eagleray Tours, and they were brilliant. They picked us up from the B&B each morning and transferred us across the island to the ferry terminal, where their dive boat was docked. The crew were friendly, the boat was well equipped, and between dives they handed out freshly baked pain au chocolat – no complaints here.

After diving, we were dropped off back in Puerto Ayora for a hot, sit-down lunch included in the trip.

Dive Sites We Visited

Daphne Minor – No hammerheads this time, but a pod of playful sea lions more than made up for it. Curious, energetic, and brilliant to watch underwater.
Seymour Island – Classic Galápagos reef diving: turtles, rays, schools of fish, and decent visibility.
Gordon Rocks – Easily the highlight. We saw a Mola Mola (Oceanic Sunfish) basking at the surface, then again at depth – followed by the moment we came for: hammerhead sharks, slowly cruising through the blue. It was breathtaking.

Ferry to San Cristóbal

Expect the Unexpected

To get to our next stop, San Cristóbal Island, you’ve got two options… take a pricey inter-island flight or brave the public ferry. We went with the ferry.

Now, boarding isn’t exactly a streamlined affair. You’re loosely directed into a queue at the dock, then packed into a small water taxi that shuttles you out to the main ferry – basically a converted fishing boat. Once onboard, bags are stowed wherever there’s space, and sea sickness bags are handed out before departure… and not without reason.

Top tip: take sea sickness tablets, even if you’re normally fine. The crossing was rough, and the bloke next to me turned a shade of green I’d never seen on land. Not the comfiest journey, but we made it.

Diving San Cristóbal & Kicker Rock

First Impressions

After arriving at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, we were greeted by a colony of sea lions, far more than on Santa Cruz – including pups lounging along the dock. We stayed at Hostal Terito, a simple and friendly place about 15 minutes from the harbour. The owner didn’t speak much English, but he was incredibly helpful. Note to self: learn more Spanish!

Diving with Wreck Bay

I booked a day’s diving with Wreck Bay Diving Center, and they were excellent. We visited the shop the day before to fit equipment (we always bring our own masks, fins, and computers) and sort the paperwork.

The dive site? The legendary Kicker Rock (León Dormido) – towering, remote, and sharky in all the best ways.

Our dive master had us wait behind a rock wall… and sure enough, hammerheads appeared, gliding past in formation. Absolute magic… But the best was yet to come.

Killer Whales & A Perfect Ending

As we made our way back to shore, a pod of dolphins appeared alongside the boat. Then suddenly – two parent killer whales and a calf swam right under us, surfacing before and after the boat. It was completely surreal and utterly unforgettable. No liveaboard. No crowd. Just one of those rare, raw nature moments you’ll never forget.

A Final Stop... Santiago, Chile

From San Cristóbal, we flew to Santiago, Chile for a short city break before heading home to the UK. It was the perfect end – good food, relaxed pace, and a final chance to decompress after the dive trip of a lifetime.

Galápagos Scuba Diving? Worth every minute.

If you’re planning a trip and wondering whether to do it land-based… I’d say absolutely. You don’t need a liveaboard to have world-class diving, unforgettable encounters, and the kind of memories that stay with you long after you’ve dried off.