In April 2025, I kicked off a three-week dive trip around the Philippines by heading south to Dauin, near Dumaguete. I’d been wanting to come here ever since I got hooked on macro photography. Dauin has made a name for itself as one of the world’s best muck diving destinations, and it really didn’t disappoint.
It was the perfect place to start my journey and a great warm-up for the rest of the islands I’d visit over the next few weeks. As well as its black sand slopes full of weird and wonderful critters, Dauin is also just a short boat ride from Apo Island, famous for its marine sanctuaries and vibrant coral gardens.
If you love looking for the tiny, rare and unusual, Dauin is a paradise. The black volcanic sand slopes right off the shore are full of life. You just need a keen eye and a camera ready. I saw all sorts here, from flamboyant cuttlefish and ghost pipefish to frogfish, nudibranchs and even a few graceful sea snakes weaving through the sand. Every dive felt like a treasure hunt.
The calm conditions and shallow depths make it ideal for long bottom times and taking your time to search the sand. It’s one of the few places where I genuinely spent most dives staring at the same patch of sand and still didn’t get bored.
If you want a change of pace, Apo Island is right on your doorstep. Just a short boat ride from Dauin, it offers bright corals, healthy reefs and plenty of turtles. Many dive shops, including mine, run day trips that include a couple of dives around Apo and some time relaxing on the island itself.
For me, though, Apo Island was just ok. The reefs are pretty enough and the turtles are always a nice sight, but I preferred the black sand shore dives back in Dauin. The weird and wonderful critters you can find there made every dive feel more exciting and unique.
I flew into the Philippines from Kuala Lumpur with AirAsia, booking through Trip.com which made it easy to find the best fares. After arriving in Manila, I connected onto a domestic flight with Cebu Pacific to Dumaguete. Honestly, Manila’s domestic departure area was one of the worst I’ve been through. Crowded, chaotic and not particularly pleasant, but once you’re through it, it’s worth it.
From Dumaguete airport, my dive shop, Bongo Bongo Divers, had arranged transport straight to their base in Dauin. It was much more comfortable than trying to arrange something myself on arrival and gave me peace of mind knowing someone was waiting for me. The drive only took about 30–40 minutes.
I stayed and dived with Bongo Bongo Divers, and it turned out to be a brilliant choice. They’re not just your average dive shop. Their family feel and warm Filipino hospitality make you feel right at home from the moment you arrive. Even the resident furry friends added to the relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.
The team were so friendly and helpful, always on hand to sort out your kit and make sure you were comfortable and ready for each dive. Nothing was too much trouble for them and they genuinely seemed to enjoy making sure everyone had a good time.
The diving itself was exceptional, and their top-quality equipment and knowledgeable guides meant I felt safe and could just focus on enjoying the underwater photography. There’s even an honesty bar for post-dive drinks and plenty of space to relax around the pool, surrounded by lush greenery.
We booked an air-conditioned room, which was rustic but clean and cosy. The bed was up a set of steep steps and the room was very much a simple base for diving, but it did the job perfectly.
While I was here, I also took the chance to complete my PADI Enriched Air (Nitrox) course. The team made the training straightforward and enjoyable, and I finished the rest of my dives on nitrox. It really made a difference. I felt less tired than usual at the end of a dive day and I’d recommend it to anyone spending a few days in the water here.
On the day of departure, Bongo Bongo arranged transport from the dive shop to the ferry port in Sibulan, making it really easy to continue my journey to the next stop, Oslob.
If you’re looking for affordable rooms, great diving and a friendly, chilled-out community, I’d happily recommend Bongo Bongo Divers.
Dauin itself is a small, friendly town with a handful of local restaurants and shops. It’s not flashy, but that’s part of its charm. I found a brilliant little spot that became my go-to for breakfast, lunch, dinner and even a few beers in the evening… Dauin Dive Café.
The food was good, reasonably priced, and the staff were really welcoming and fun. They really look after you and make you feel at home, whether you’re grabbing a quick coffee or hanging around after dark for a few drinks. I’d highly recommend stopping by if you’re in town.
Dauin turned out to be the perfect way to start my Philippines adventure. It’s laid-back, full of character and offers a unique mix of muck diving and vibrant reefs just offshore. Although Apo Island is worth seeing, it was the black sand slopes of Dauin itself, full of incredible critters and even the occasional sea snake, that really stood out for me. If you’re into photography or just want to see some of the ocean’s strangest wildlife, you won’t regret making it your first stop.
Photos from my time in Dauin and trips to Apo Island… full of sand, colour, and more than a few tiny surprises!
