Scuba Diving at Tulamben, Bali
From Candidasa to Tulamben
September 2025
From Candidasa I had booked four nights in Tulamben, the place where I first completed my PADI Open Water training back in 2022 with Sianmay Dive Bali. They brought me here for the course, and it felt like coming full circle. With over 150 dives now under my belt and some new camera equipment to test, I was excited to return and really make the most of the incredible macro life this area is known for.
Tulamben itself is a small fishing village on the northeast coast of Bali, but it has become one of the island’s most famous dive destinations. The main attraction is the USAT Liberty wreck, a Second World War transport ship that lies just offshore after being torpedoed in 1942. It’s so popular that in high season you can find a hundred divers in the water at once.
Yet Tulamben is not only about the wreck. The coastline here offers a mix of fantastic muck diving and reef sites, making it a must for underwater macro photography. The three main dive spots each have their own unique landscape, giving Tulamben Bay an incredible variety of ecosystems. The black volcanic sand makes a striking backdrop for hundreds of species of macro life, and you never quite know what you might find hiding there.
The best time to dive Tulamben is between October and November, when the weather is calm and visibility is excellent. The southeast monsoon, from May to July, also brings good conditions. Local communities have helped protect the area by reducing fishing, and the reefs and wreck remain rich with marine life.
Tulamben itself is a simple place with a few restaurants, laundry services, homestays and dive resorts. To really enjoy it though, I would recommend staying a few nights rather than trying to fit it into a day trip.
Getting to Tulamben and Where I Stayed
I only booked my accommodation a couple of days before leaving Candidasa. As usual, I did my Google research, the same approach you will have seen on my other pages, and looked for somewhere central with good facilities. I am not really one for dorm life, I much prefer a private room. Call me a snob if you like, but after a day’s diving I just want my own space.
I contacted Bali Reef Divers Tulamben via WhatsApp and they quickly got everything organised. They confirmed a private room at their small resort and offered to arrange a private transfer from Candidasa. I booked it for ease, and everything was sorted smoothly.
I was picked up from my hotel in Candidasa right on time and we set off towards Tulamben. The journey took around an hour and ten minutes, with beautiful scenery along the way and a few cheeky wild monkeys at the roadside. It was an easy, comfortable trip and a nice way to take in more of Bali before arriving.
On arrival I was pleasantly surprised. The resort was small but had everything I needed. I received a warm welcome at reception, along with a refreshing fruit drink, then was shown to my room. It faced onto the pool, was spacious, and far more than I expected for the price. Inside, I had a desk, a safe, and a fridge stocked with drinks available to purchase if I wanted them. There was also a restaurant on site where I chose to eat every evening of my four-night stay. It was simple, convenient, and matched the chilled pace of the place perfectly.
Now it was time to get the camera equipment on charge and get ready for three days of diving.
Diving with Bali Reef Divers
Staying with Bali Reef Divers Tulamben made everything simple. The dive shop was right across from my room and beside the pool, so it could not have been more convenient. After checking in, I called into the shop to complete the paperwork and sort out my rental gear. The equipment was new and well maintained, and the whole process was quick and easy. From there I asked if I could dive three times the next day, which they arranged without hesitation.
The next morning I only had a ten-metre walk to meet my divemaster, Oddo, at 8am. With my rash vest, booties, weight belt and camera gear ready, we headed five minutes down to the beach in front of the USAT Liberty wreck. The rest of the equipment was already waiting for us at the shore. That level of service continued throughout my stay.
The Famous USAT Liberty Wreck
Of course, no trip to Tulamben would be complete without diving the USAT Liberty wreck. This Second World War shipwreck lies just offshore and has become one of Bali’s most iconic dive sites. Covered in coral and buzzing with marine life, it attracts divers from all over the world. While mornings can be busy, I found the wreck much quieter in the early afternoon, which made it easier to enjoy the atmosphere. Schools of fish swirled through the hull, and every corner seemed to hide another subject for the camera. It is a must-dive site and one I would happily return to again.
Oddo also guided me to explore the areas to the left and right of the wreck, which are full of macro life. Tiny nudibranchs and unusual critters were tucked away in the sand and rubble. His keen eye and tips on buoyancy and camera positioning really helped me get the most out of these dives.
Macro Life and Critter Hunting
Day two was all about macro. In the morning we headed to Melasti, the famous black sand slope near Seraya. It might look plain from the surface, but underwater it is packed with critters. Oddo quickly found Shaun the Sheep nudibranchs, Donut Dorids, leaf fish, frogfish and more. The Shaun the Sheep was so tiny I didn’t even realise I had taken a photo of it until I looked back at my shots afterwards. A sure sign that I really do need to think about prescription lenses for my mask. Oddo’s attention to detail meant I always came back with new photos, and with his guidance I was able to take my time and really work on the shots.
After the morning dives we returned to the resort for lunch and a longer break before heading out for the evening and night dives at Sidem. This peaceful bay was full of surprises. A seahorse hanging onto seagrass became one of my favourite encounters, while the night dive revealed boxer crabs, octopus, shrimps and even a tiny frogfish. Under torchlight the site completely transformed.
Pygmy Seahorses at Seraya
Day three was unforgettable. Oddo took me to Seraya Secrets, one of Bali’s best muck diving sites. We descended to a lone gorgonian sea fan and there they were, two Bargibant’s pygmy seahorses. I had seen them before in Malapascua, but this time I finally had the right camera setup to capture them properly. It was a bucket-list moment and a real highlight of my return to Tulamben.
The following dive at Seraya were just as rewarding, with colourful nudibranchs, stingrays hiding in the sand and endless critter action across the black slope.
In the afternoon we also dived at Quanji, another macro-rich site along the coast. The atmosphere here was great, with a few other divers and guides all signalling to each other when they found something interesting. Together we spotted tiny frogfish, unusual nudibranchs, and yes, the Donut Dorid once again. Between dives we stopped at a small warung for snacks and tea, where I even got to meet Oddo’s aunty.
The second dive at Kuanji was just me and Oddo, and like always he used the time to help me perfect my photography. His guidance on positioning and buoyancy with the camera was spot on, and I felt I learned so much from him. It was another brilliant session and a perfect way to finish the day.
Overall Experience
In total I spent three days diving with Bali Reef Divers Tulamben, and every dive was memorable. The combination of excellent facilities, well maintained equipment, and the relaxed but professional approach made the whole experience stand out. Oddo in particular was one of the best guides I have had the pleasure of diving with. His knowledge, keen eye, and support with my photography took the trip to another level.
For me, diving with Bali Reef Divers Tulamben was the perfect mix of convenience, professionalism and adventure. Whether you want to explore the Liberty wreck, hunt for nudibranchs, or tick pygmy seahorses off your list, this is a fantastic place to dive.
My Private Dive Guide, Oddo
A big part of what made this trip to Tulamben so memorable was diving with Oddo. Over three days and eleven dives he wasn’t just a guide, but also a teacher, spotter and all-round great dive buddy. His ability to find the tiniest critters was incredible, from nudibranchs smaller than a fingernail to pygmy seahorses swaying on a sea fan.
What stood out most was how much he helped me with my underwater photography. He took the time to show me how to adjust my buoyancy with the camera, how to position myself for the best angle, and even how to approach certain subjects without disturbing them. Those tips made a huge difference to my shots and taught me things I’ll carry into every dive from now on.
Friendly, professional and patient, Oddo is the kind of guide who makes a great dive even better. Diving with him really took my Tulamben experience to another level, and if you are into macro, I would say he is an essential for any underwater macro photography trip in this area.
If you are planning to dive in Tulamben, you can book him direct on WhatsApp +62 857 9279 9892, and you can also follow him on Instagram.
Transport and Departure
After three brilliant days of diving it was time to leave Tulamben. I booked another private transfer, this time with Adi, who picked me up directly from the resort and drove me through to Kuta for my final night before flying home.
I asked if we could stop in Candidasa on the way so I could have lunch at my favourite spot, Warung Budi Ayu. He was more than happy to do so, waited an hour while I ate, and then we continued the journey. The drive from Tulamben to Kuta takes around three hours with traffic, but the stop made it much more enjoyable.
Adi went the extra mile by also arranging to collect me the following morning and take me to the airport, as he was staying with family nearby. I would definitely recommend him for transfers and also for private tours around Bali. He knows the best spots to visit, and although I didn’t have time on this trip, next time I’ll be sure to make the most of it.
You can book him direct on WhatsApp +62 857 3705 8046.
Tulamben Scuba Diving Gallery
A selection of photos from my dives in Tulamben, Bali. Across three days and eleven dives I explored the famous Liberty wreck and a range of macro-rich sites like Melasti, Sidem, Seraya Secrets and Kuanji. From pygmy seahorses and Shaun the Sheep nudibranchs to tiny frogfish and seahorses, this gallery is a glimpse into the diverse marine life that makes Tulamben such a world-class dive destination.
