Scuba Diving at Aliwal Shoal, South Africa
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Up Close With Sharks in South Africa
April 2023
In April 2023, we travelled from the UK to South Africa for what was mainly a land-based trip. But as soon as we started planning, I knew we couldn’t visit this part of the world without adding a few dives. I’d heard so much about Aliwal Shoal and its reputation for incredible shark diving. No cages, no glass, just blacktips and ragged-tooth sharks cruising calmly in their natural habitat. That’s exactly the kind of experience I love.
Aliwal Shoal lies just off the small coastal town of Umkomaas, also known by its official name eMkhomazi, on the subtropical South Coast of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. The area is world-renowned for its close-up shark encounters, and the idea of dropping beneath the surface to see these powerful yet peaceful predators was far too good to miss.
Why Is Aliwal Shoal Famous for Diving?
Aliwal Shoal is one of South Africa’s best-known dive sites and for good reason. The reef lies about five kilometres off Umkomaas and is actually the fossilised remains of an ancient sand dune. Over thousands of years, it became covered in coral and sponges, creating a unique habitat packed with life. Stretching roughly 2.5km long and 1km wide, it’s ideal for recreational diving.
The Sharks of Aliwal Shoal
What really makes Aliwal Shoal special is the sharks. Between July and November, ragged-tooth sharks gather here to mate, making it one of the best places in the world to see them up close. Even outside those months, shark sightings are common. We visited in April and saw plenty of oceanic blacktips, plus a few early-season raggies gliding past in the current.
The reef itself bursts with colour and life. Schools of snapper, barracuda, turtles and rays are all regular visitors. But for me, the sharks were the real highlight, and Aliwal Shoal delivered.
How to Get to Aliwal Shoal
Reaching Umkomaas was an adventure in itself. We flew from the UK via Paris, and since we had a long layover, we made the most of it with a quick day trip into the city. A few sights, great food, and back to the airport for the long haul to South Africa.
Durban Stopover
From Paris, we continued overnight to Johannesburg, then transferred to Durban. Durban was a pleasant surprise. Right on the coast, the city felt vibrant, friendly and full of energy. We spent a few days enjoying the beaches, bars and excellent food before heading south to dive.
Driving to Umkomaas
When dive day arrived, we hired a car in Durban and drove the 40 minutes down the coast to Umkomaas, (eMkhomazi). The route is easy and scenic, and having our own car meant flexibility with timings. We went straight to the dive school on arrival, ready for an early start.
Diving With Aliwal Dive Centre
For our dives at Aliwal Shoal, we booked with Aliwal Dive Centre, which offers both diving and accommodation under one roof.
When dive day arrived, we hired a car in Durban and drove the 40 minutes down the coast to Umkomaas, (eMkhomazi). The route is easy and scenic, and having our own car meant flexibility with timings. We went straight to the dive school on arrival, ready for an early start.
The Baited Shark Dive
We started with a baited shark dive, something Aliwal Shoal is famous for. After a thorough briefing, we joined the team for an early surf launch, powering the 8-metre RIB through the waves at the mouth of the Umkomaas River. It’s pure adrenaline.
About 20 minutes later, we reached the site, and the bait drum was lowered into the water. Within minutes, dorsal fins appeared beside the boat. Blacktips everywhere. The entry and exit alone got the heart racing.
Once in the water, we hovered at a fixed depth, keeping buoyancy steady and movements slow. The blacktips circled gracefully, coming closer than expected. Every so often, a cheeky remora brushed past, reminding us that we were visitors in their world. It was surreal and unforgettable.
Reef Dive at Raggies Cave
Our second dive was at Raggies Cave, one of Aliwal Shoal’s most famous sites. True to its name, it’s where ragged-tooth sharks gather in large numbers during the main season. We were lucky enough to see a few even in April. You can’t enter the cave when sharks are present, but there’s a sandy viewing area at the entrance that’s perfect for watching them glide by.
By late morning, we were back at the lodge, still buzzing from the experience. We’d squeezed both dives into the day we arrived, but staying longer would have made it even better. More time means more dives, a relaxed pace and another chance to see these incredible animals.
The Dive Team
The team at Aliwal Dive Centre really made the trip special. The skipper handled the surf launch like a pro and landed the RIB on the beach with flair, sending fishermen scattering as we came charging up the sand. The dive guide was calm, knowledgeable and full of shark facts, while the crew kept things organised and upbeat. Their enthusiasm was contagious and added so much to the experience.
Why Aliwal Shoal Belongs on Your Bucket List
Diving Aliwal Shoal was one of the highlights of my South Africa trip. The mix of wild ocean, unforgettable shark encounters and a welcoming dive team made it an experience I’d recommend to anyone. Whether you’re visiting for a day or staying longer, Aliwal Shoal deserves a place on every diver’s list.
Aliwal Shoal Dive Gallery
A few highlights from our day diving Aliwal Shoal with Aliwal Dive Centre. Blacktips, raggies and an unforgettable morning on the reef.
The images below are screen grabs from my GoPro footage taken during those dives. This was the equipment I used at the time, but I’ve since upgraded my underwater camera setup, which you can see here.
